I want to tell you about Japan. About how I strolled slowly under the arms of century-old shrines, how I mosied aimlessly around Okayama, how I gazed in awe as women tied each other’s Yukata obi belts into tight and upright knots on the streets of Kyoto. How Japan’s culturally and historically lush cities took me in as a peaceful wanderer and let me stay a while.
But first… I’m going to tell you about Tokyo.
My time in Tokyo although just as rich and luscious as the time I spent elsewhere in Japan, took on a much different tone. My time in Tokyo was a rushed, speedy, frantic frenzy. A constant hurry to the next site or train. A kaleidoscope of buildings exchanging color and light.
Tokyo was named Japan’s capital in 1869 and includes 47 districts. It is the country’s center for business, government, and entertainment. Tokyo has the quintessential city vibe that you can find in many western cities; its vibrant and bright, busy and chaotic, but it stands out among its Western comrades as a city of order & efficiency, of pristine technology, of sophisticated public transportation, and of the juxtaposition of the traditional and the contemporary. The streets, regardless of how crowded or swarmed with cars, always seemed quiet. There was never shouting or horns honking; just a warm, sweet, low hum of car engines and the thuds of feet briskly meeting pavement. Everyone stood to the left on the escalators unless they were walking up on the right. The sidewalks were clean despite the nearly nonexistent public trashcans. Trainstations and sidewalks had thick textured yellow lines called Tactile Ground Surface Indicators that are designed to help blind people navigate throughout the city. At every turn I was taken aback again and again by the deep seeded consideration for others that Japanese society is designed around.
Shinjuku, Tokyo: Hotel Gracery & Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building
Shinjuku is a bustling district of Tokyo. It is a coalescence of tourist destinations, government buildings, and red-light districts.
Its the home of the busiest railway station in the world, Shinjuku Station, at which I and my study abroad group arrived at from Narita during rush hour. It is about a 10-minute walk from Shinjuku Station to Hotel Gracery, a hotel remembered for its most notorious and ever-present guest, Godzilla. The massive Godzilla statue sits prominently on the 8th floor of the high rise, hovering over the city, enjoying his jaw-dropping view of the city. He’s rumored to growl and breath smoke a few times a day, but I only heard him growl once when we pet his stomach (words I never thought I’d type). Besides that, he was a very pleasant roommate and the hotel was very fun to stay at.
Besides the first night, I didn’t spend much time in Shinjuku. We were constantly hopping on the next train or walking (quickly) to the next neighborhood.
The other major spot we visited while there was the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. At 48 stories the views from the top were incredible and the gift shop wasn’t too bad either.
Ginza, Tokyo: Nissan Crossing
Walking through Ginza was very interesting. There was a lot to look at. Ginza houses many flagship stores of luxury retailers and is a popular destination for luxury shopping.
Although I am an avid shopper and lover of all things fashion, my attention was focused more on the architecture in Ginza. A lot of times in Japan the buildings look liked they had been built in a race. Like maybe the builders had all started building at once to see who could finish first and didn’t share with each other any details about where they were building. The structures almost always seemed to be uncomfortably touching each other; tall ones competing to see the sky and shorter ones just gasping for air. But in Ginza, everything looks intentional and planned. The buildings fit neatly together like one couldn’t stand without the other.
We went to Giza to go to Nissan Crossing. Nissan and Sony share the building, so when you get tired of looking at model cars, you can go upstairs and play around with some very expensive cameras. If automobiles and technology aren’t your thing, there’s a cafe that will print your face on a latte and a restaurant that will make you a seriously decked out milkshake.
Asakusa, Tokyo: Nakamise-dōri & Sensō-ji Temple
Asakusa is one place in Tokyo that has managed to preserve a traditional atmosphere. Asakusa is most known for the Sensō-ji Temple, the oldest Temple in Tokyo. The temple was originally finished in 645 AD. The temple that I walked too is an imitation of the original that was destroyed in World War II air raids.
On the walk towards the Temple, there is a 250-meter strip lined on either side with shops, called Nakamise-dōri. There are around 89 different shops down the strip that give you plenty to see, eat, and buy as you make your way to the temple.
Before the entrance to the temple and on the temple grounds are several o-mikuji, where you can make a donation of 100 yen and receive a fortune. If the fortune is “good” or “normal” you can continue on your way, but if its “bad” you are asked to tie it to one of the racks nearby. Tying it to the rack is meant to keep the fortune waiting on the rack rather than coming home with you.
Chiyoda, Tokyo: Tokyo Station
Chiyoda is home to Tokyo’s most beautiful train station, Tokyo Station. The original station is in Marunouchi, Chiyoda’s business district. The building’s design is rather out of place pressed up against the sleek, modern buildings surrounding it. If you focus on the Neo-Baroque design long enough you may think you got off the train in France.
We arrived at Tokyo Station an hour earlier than we were supposed to. After a jam-packed day of running and rushing, we took the hour to be still for a moment. We sat outside the station watching people pass. Everyone was just starting to leave work and enter the station. Even as it grew busier, the quiet remained.
Shibuya, Tokyo: Meiji Shrine
The Meiji Shrine was one of my favorite stops in Tokyo. The Shrine was built to apotheosize Emporer Meiji and his wife Empress Shōken.
The Shrine, originally completed in 1921, was demolished during World War II. The version that stands now was part of the post-war rebuilding efforts and was funded for by public fundraising. It was finished in 1958. The Shrine is tucked inside an evergreen forest, secluding it almost completely from the city.
Harajuku, Tokyo
Harajuku was everything I had hoped for and more. The dancing colors, the high energy, the trend-crazed storefronts. If you go to Takeshita Street be prepared to shop, it won’t let you down.
Shin-Yokahama, Tokyo: The Ramen Museum
We took the train from Harajuku to Shin-Yokahama juuuust to go to the Ramen Museum. Besides a wealth of knowledge on the origins and history of Ramen, the museum features 9 different Ramen restaurants all representing Ramen from different regions. I died and went to a noodle-y broth-y heaven.
I hope you guys enjoyed this travel diary! I am writing up travel diaries for the rest of the cities that I visited in Japan so stay tuned for those!
Always,
